Surfing is a Trip

Swell Has Risen' - pt.2

2009-04-13T19:30:00.000-05:00

Huge thanks once again to my photographer and greatest surf wife, V.

Relaxing in the pocket.

I had the captain from my yacht drop me off at this secret spot. (not my yacht and we're at the most crowded Spring Break beach in Destin). I was the only one out though.

The limper the wrist, the longer the nose ride.

Swell Has Risen' - Easter weekend

2009-04-13T19:23:00.000-05:00

Taking it high off the top.

Just about air dropped the landing.

Natalie getting some board time. Quadruple shaka... ahhh yeah.

kingscliff this week

2009-03-27T16:31:00.000-05:00

i have had this view plenty this week

burleigh barrells this week

2009-03-27T16:29:00.000-05:00

2009-03-27T15:53:00.003-05:00

Forecast issued 5.30pm Friday, 26 March 2009Short Forecast: E tradewind swell remains constant around the four to six foot mark over the weekend, potentially preceding a renewed rising trend in ESE swell getting underway on Monday, peaking at eight to ten feet into the middle of the week. WIND: moderate to strong SE.SaturdayE swell 5 to 6ft exposed coasts, about a foot smaller across northern NSW. WIND: SSE 15 to 20 knots.SundayE swell 4 to 6ft southeastern Queensland exposed coasts, marginally smaller across northern NSW. Small SE swell up to 2 - 3ft across far northern NSW. WIND: SE 10 to 15 knots.MondayE swell 4 to 6ft exposed coasts, possibly increasing to 6 to 8ft into the afternoon. WIND: SE 10 to 20 knots. TuesdayESE swell potentially 8ft+ exposed beaches. WIND: early light SW tending SE 15 to 25 knots.WednesdayESE swell potentially 6 to 8ft plus open beaches, gradually easing. Wind: SE 15 to 25 knots increasing to 10 to 20 knots.ThursdayESE swell around 5 to 6ft plus exposed coasts,.

The tunnel of my love. A green cathedral, a tube, a cave, a shack, a pit, a cavern, a precious place. A room with a view free of charge. An empty hole in Coolangatta yesterday. Look out for a comprehensive Meltdown feature on Coastalwatch later today showcasing the quality waves SE Qld surfers have enjoyed since Saturday

Good Luck Mike

2009-03-26T22:49:00.002-05:00

Congratulations and good luck to Mike. He's representing the panhandle Sr. Men Longboard division at the ESA regionals this weekend in Sebastian Inlet. Show them how it's done west coast style.

Surfer Dude, movie review

2009-03-04T17:07:00.002-05:00

So I made it through the movie "Surfer Dude" last night. The local video store had it on the shelf at knee to waist high level (or head high for my daughter who picked it out for me). Normally I wouldn't think about renting a movie with Matthew McConaughey attempting to act like a surfer in it. It's pretty much a stoner movie. The main character is basically a sketch of where Spiccoli from "Fast Times at Ridgemont High" left after graduating. Cast members include Woody Harrelson and Willie Nelson. Lot's of pot smoking and boobs. Not enough surfing.

Best line... when a virtual reality operator, who has thousands of breaks loaded on the computer, asks the main character (a total ludite) if he had a favorite surfing spot, he replies, "yeah... but I ain't tellin' you."

quiksilver pro

2009-02-27T23:56:00.002-05:00

went to the first day of Quiky pro today. saw 5 heats, incl mick, joel, the hobgoods(same heat, damo was on fire!)etc, etc(no disrespect they all surfed like pros)...and KS. He paddled out on what looked shorter than my fish which is a 5 11, probably like 5 8(or shorter), fattish nose and kinda rounded pin didnt look like much rocker. He was slidding tail, pulling 360s in gravity defying fashion, he must be part gecko the way he sticks to his board. What was amazing is that if you have any doubt that this man is the best in the world, just watch an actual contest, all the heats...his flow, power and artistry are clearly evident. The waves had deteriorated by his heat and he still put on a show...a true master.

Morning Session in Destin

2009-02-19T15:50:00.000-05:00

I managed to get out for my first dawn patrol of the year. Great head high waves, offshore winds and only a handful of people in the water. I spent 1o minutes when I got out of the water and took these shots.

Danny In Puerto Rico

2009-01-18T20:07:00.004-05:00

I couldn't resist posting this video in Dannny's absence. I hope he's having fun in Puerto Rico while we are all freezing up here. Below is some surf from a secret spot in Georgia.

Matt, right now Mike Sturdivant and I (as part of Blue Mountain Surf) are planning some events in April (one surf school in Florida and then a paddle/kayak school in Georgia). We are launching Stone Mountain Surf this Spring to sell/rent Stand Up Paddle Boards in Georgia and beyond. I still have an eye on the calendar for an international surf trip of some sort but a couple things need to fall into place. It's summer where you are right?

(Hey Cross--no autoplaying your slideshows. You're going to burn down the blog!)

ESA surf contest

2009-01-11T23:26:00.003-05:00

Had a surf contest this weekend. Mike and I duked it out at the pier on the island. Mike took first in longboard. The kids had a great time and weather was horrible. Good times. Kudos to the greatest surfing wife ever for taking all the photos.

Fog Days of Winter, pt. 2

2009-01-09T12:27:00.000-05:00

I had to move to the inside so V could get shots

John from Cincinatti (not)

Theo always ready to help a Dad out.

Fog Days of Winter

2009-01-09T12:21:00.000-05:00

Christmas Day swell. You could barely make out the wave on the outside from the shore.

Natalie's first bikini. And she got to try it out on Christmas.

V wrestling the 9'6" on the inside.

Best of 2008

2008-12-21T22:57:00.002-05:00

A lot of these shots you've probably seen over the last year. Definitely some sweet memories in here.

I hear we're supposed to have a decent swell on Christmas.

Random Surf Shot 2

2008-12-21T22:10:00.001-05:00

9'6" coming through.

March 16, 2008

Random surf photo

2008-12-21T22:06:00.001-05:00

INCOMING!!!

May 3, 2008

Storm Surfers

2008-12-18T06:04:00.002-05:00

Below is Discovery's announcment on Storm Surfers. Mike and I got contacted a while back by a production company (same producers that did Top Chef and Project Runway) after they saw our hurricane swell photos on www.bluemountainsurf.com. I guess they went with Tom Carroll and Ross Clark-Jones instead of Mike and me.

The show is airing in Australia only for now. I was able to watch it on Discovery's intranet. It's good. They got some crazy surf, just nothing classic. The adventure aspects in Tazmania were cool though. Tom and Ross were funny when the lines weren't scripted.

Matt, were you able to check this out?

-------------------------
Discovery Channel's STORM SURFERS Rides in on 60 Minutes Wave in Discovery Networks Asia-Pacific

Discovery Ignite's local co-production STORM SURFERS crashes onto Aussie shores this week, premiering on Discovery Channel at 8:30 pm (AEDST) on Wednesday December 17 in Discovery Networks Asia-Pacific. Combining weather prediction, science, extreme surfing and sheer bravery, the one-hour special follows former world surfing champion Tom Carroll and big wave legend Ross Clarke-Jones as they hunt down the biggest storm fronts in Australia and surf them. Between them, Tom and Ross manage to conquer the infamous Shipsterns Bluff and the mythical Dangerous Banks off the coast of Tasmania. The latest HD camera technology and GPS tracking devices give viewers a fantastic vantage point - right at the front of the surfboard - as the surfers push the limits of physical endurance in pursuit of the ultimate ride.
STORM SURFERS is a 2007 finalist for Discovery Ignite, a local co-production initiative which was launched in 2007 to generate Australian content for Discovery Channel while providing local documentary filmmakers with the opportunity to showcase their work to a worldwide audience. More information is available at www.discoverychannel.com.au/ignite.

There has been a lot of buzz around STORM SURFERS in the local press in Australia, including a three-page feature in The Sunday Telegraph (December 7) and a special on 60 Minutes on Sunday October 26. The STORM SURFERS segment, which pulled in over 1.55 million viewers, featured interviews with Tom Carroll and Ross Clarke-Jones, and footage of the pair catching monumental waves off the coast of Tasmania during the filming.

STORM SURFERS will be premiering in other markets in Asia in 2009.

Discovery Communications, Inc.
December 16, 2008

Blue Mountain Surf Online Store

2008-11-29T10:03:00.003-05:00

If you need any surf-related gifts this year, check out the new online store, Mike and I just added to www.BlueMountainSurf.com.

All proceeds will go towards a surf trip this Spring. I recommend the Jack Johnson Holiday CD and the new DVD Waterman. (You can listen to Jack's "Someday at Christmas" song at the site). Sorry Matt I think our store only allows US-based transactions.

No word yet on whether Santa will be able to fit a 12' standup paddleboard down my chimney.

New boards

2008-11-26T02:28:00.002-05:00

6'4", 2 1/2", 20 1/2", shaper Steve Barber "Full Force" single to double concave, swallow tail, abit more shallow tail than my fish but same idea, middle of board very flat, hardly any rocker, with alot of volume up front, quad. Will take pictures when I can find the camera. Rode it this weekend on a ok swell about 3 feet but a bit weak. It took a bit of figuring out. This board is very tail driven, you have to plant your back foot and drive from there. If you get too much on your front foot(which I tend to do) the board will not turn and seems to stall. Once it gets going it is very fast. I think it is going to fit in nicely in my growing quiver for smallish days. It really is a bit more foam than I was after...but I am experimenting. I have 2 shapers that I have on a deal...I take care of pets, they make me boards. I have 3 more boards already to my credit!! This board is kind of an attempt at a version of Al Merrick's Pod shape. Probably more "pody" if was about 4 inches shorter.

6'4", 2 1/2", 19 3/4" Shaper Skye Burton "On Fire" different shaper to above, more standard looking board, took this to Bali, only board I took out, and handled surf up to solid 6-8 indo. Still has a fair amount of volume, again maybe too much, probably could shave another 1/8-1/4 off the thickness, the width is fine, and maybe just a touch too much foam in the tail(rounded square/thruster/FCS K2s. Single to double concave, very moderate rocker.

New iPhone Surf Report App

2008-11-11T11:07:00.001-05:00

New iPhone surf report app from Oakley. I don't have an iPhone but this looks pretty good.

bali

2008-10-30T05:04:00.002-05:00

Well, back home 3 weeks now. I had the best time. I have no surfing pictures as all the surfing done on reefs that you take little boats out to. The days went like this...wake up...breakfast buffet, walk out the back of the resort, check the tide/waves etc. There will be several owners of small local wodden boats with outboard motors hoping you will use their services. You stick with the same guy each time so he takes care of you. 50,ooo rupia, about 3 bucks for a round trip out to the reef. About a 5-15min trip depending on what part of the reef you want to surf that day. You jump out of the boat, he goes back to shore to continue his services for other surfers. You tell him come back and get me in 2hrs...he does...and you are happy to climb aboard....head back to the beach...rinse off...jump in the pool....the pool has a plunge bar...so you order a Bintang or 3 if it happens to be happy hours....The waves posted on this site just recently at Blue Mountain...it/s like that...every day...some days a bit smaller, some days bigger. 6 foot there is like 10 foot here, more power. Paddled into the biggest waves of my life...and paid for it. Dreamlands was a solid 9 foot with bigger sets, I caught set waves but also got the shit kicked out of me...and was scared. Not really my idea of fun. Impossibles on the same day was smaller by about a foot or two but on dangerous reef, Pandang Pandang was perfect but so crowded and critical that I didn't bother...that's why I surfed Impossibles instead...same beach. Uluwatu that day was a solid 15 foot, I watched, as did most everybody else, only 4 people out and only saw I person catch a smaller set. Most of my surfing done on Kuta reef. I stayed at the Ramada Bintang that sits right on the reef. Biggest day there was solid 6 foot at Middles. Anyway...we had such a great time that we have already booked our flights for July next year!!! Hope everybody gets waves as soon as possible!

Solid Fall swell in Blue Mountain

2008-10-24T21:11:00.002-05:00

We had a pretty epic day today. Mike and I surfed about 2 hours in Blue Mountain Beach. It was breaking big on the outside. Steady offshore winds kept conditions clean. I hope there's lots more of this to come this winter.

Mike had the eye-in-the-sky spectator on this ride.

If you look close, you can see me ducking under this monster peak.

The flying gull stance (COMING DOWWWWWN!!!).

Special thanks to Greg W. for hanging out and taking these photos.
View all the photos from this session here.

SL8R Could Clinch 9 Tomorrow

2008-10-02T13:34:00.002-05:00

If "Robert Kelly Slater (b. February 11, 1972, Cocoa Beach, FL, USA), known simply as Kelly Slater" wins at Mundaka tomorrow morning, he'll clinch his third world title. I challenge you to watch the webcast, then be the first to update his Wikipedia page with the news.

Steve's Hurricane Ike Pics

2008-09-25T12:50:00.004-05:00

My new Hurricane Ike Pics are posted on www.BlueMountainSurf.com.

Riding concrete mountains.

2008-09-24T10:55:00.001-05:00

You may need to towel off after watching this. I worked up a sweat just watching.